Yesterday my
friend and fellow early baseball aficionado David Lambert from the New England
Historic Genealogical Society sent me a note, asking if I could recommend any restaurants
in downtown Albany. David will be here guiding the NEHGS group that will be
mining the New York State Archives and Library for family treasures later this
week.
I sent him a
list of six downtown eateries, warning him that because Albany is the state
capital, downtown restaurants can be pricey, since their usual customers are
lobbyists and legislators, with bulging expense accounts and per diems.
And
strangely enough, that got me thinking about restaurants in general and their
place in family history. Only two of
those restaurants I recommended were around way back in the 1970s when Mrs.
Blogger and I came back to Albany from East Africa. That’s really not
surprising since, just like people, restaurants come and go. And – also just like people – restaurants have
histories, and those histories are often intertwined with those of local
families.
One of the
restaurants I recommended was Jack’s Oyster House on lower State Street. Everybody
who comes to Albany should eat at Jack’s at least once, knowing that they’re
joining a long line of politicians, mayors, governors and presidents. (Is this where Al Smith sat? Where’s the FDR table?)
Jack’s has
been run by the Rosenstein family for three generations and I suspect that
after its most recent renovation it
looks almost the same as it did 80 years ago, right down to the black and white
tile floor. Today it’s run by Brad
Rosenstein, the grandson of the founder.
His granddad Jacob Rosenstein got his start in the food business – at least
as the story is told around these here parts – working in the kitchen of another
famous Albany landmark. That landmark
was a restaurant called Keeler’s, formerly Keeler’s Hotel and Restaurant.
The picture above, from the Library of
Congress collection, shows Keeler’s circa 1908 – 1910. Keeler’s later moved to
State Street, more about which later.
Keeler’s on
State Street – both as a business and a building – is gone now, having fallen
victim to changing tastes in the late 1960s.
But in its day …
The Keeler’s
on State Street was built as a replacement for the original Keeler’s Hotel and
Restaurant, which had been destroyed in a great fire in the fall of 1919. The original Keeler’s – referenced and shown
in the streetscape photo above - had been located on the corner of Broadway and
Maiden Lane.
When I was
in high school and later, at university, Keeler’s was THE place to eat in
downtown Albany.
With its faux-Tudor wood-carved exterior and its fine wood
paneled interior, leather chairs and seemingly endless English prints by W. Dendy Sadler (see left) on the walls, it exuded that “old English gentleman’s club” atmosphere. There
were small private dining rooms that could be gotten for special occasions and,
of course, all the waiters were male, with white shirts, black bow ties and trousers
and white aprons, for the proper “club” look.
When the
building was demolished to make way for a great steel and glass boxlike bank office
building, the paneling inside went to the venerable Fort Orange Club, where
today it graces the walls of several public rooms. The more than 100 Sadler prints that lined Keeler's walls are there as
well.
My parents
and I went to Keeler’s occasionally for special occasions, once I was old
enough to be taken out in public and could eat in a restaurant like a “proper
young gentleman.”
While not
exactly a family tradition, Keeler’s was,
after all, the restaurant at which they had their wedding breakfast in 1942, so
it was a “special” place for those “special” occasions.
Here’s the
other “family – Keeler’s” connection: it
was at that original Keeler’s location on Broadway that my grandfather was treated
to a “state-like” dinner in his honor in October of 1917, following the World
Series. As you may know if you’ve been
reading this blog, my grandfather was a member of the Chicago White Sox and
that was the year they beat the New York Giants and won the World Series.
This is how
the local newspaper described the event:
MANY ATTEND RECEPTION
FOR MEL WOLFGANG
Albanians Turn Out En
Masse To Honor North End Ball Player
Albany outdid itself
last night in welcoming back Mellie Wolfgang, the North End boy, after an
absence from the city of six months during which he achieved fame as a member
of the Chicago White Sox, winners over the New York Giants in the recent series
for the world’s baseball championship.
In the past Albany always has honored her sons, but the demonstration given
to Wolfgang last night easily excelled any other welcome received by an
Albanian in some time.
Wolfgang, John “Shano” Collins, right fielder on the Chicago team, and roommate of Mellie’s all season, and “Skull” Devine, another Albany boy, were met at the Union depot early in the evening. They piled into a waiting automobile and rode at the head of a parade arranged in Wolfgang’s honor. Baseball enthusiasts and friends of Wolfgang marched over the following route: Broadway to Clinton Avenue, to Lark Street, to Washington Avenue, to Eagle Street, to State Street, to Broadway, to Keeler’s hotel, where a banquet was served.
The writer
then proceeded to describe the banquet’s speakers and events. Here’s one:
Mayor Joseph W. Stevens
paid a fine tribute to Wolfgang, whom he met for the first time last
night. The mayor said, “I, as mayor of
this city, extend a hearty and cordial welcome to Mr. Wolfgang and his friend,
Mr. Collins, of the White Sox, and our townsman, Mr. Devine, of the Red Sox. I give the keys of the city to them, although
I think it is hardly necessary, as I do not believe there is a cop in Albany
who would dare to catch either one of them.”
In closing the Mayor advised Wolfgang to enter politics, expressing his
opinion that Wolfgang would be highly successful if he ran for office.
My favorite
part of the story comes close to the end.
The writer continued:
At the beginning of the
dinner, Wolfgang was presented with a floral horseshoe and the little North
Albany lad hid behind the piece throughout the banquet. Toastmaster Cooke paid
his final tribute to Mellie in presenting a diamond fob to him. The diners yelled for a speech, and Mellie,
in his unassuming and modest way, said simply, “I am happy. I’m glad. I certainly thank you all. I don’t deserve this. Thanks.”
It’s hard to
imagine any ancestor of mine at a loss for words!